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ACS ACS-24UHF/Eagle User Manual
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Contents
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213 If you store your vinyl in a warm location, the adhesive can be affected and that can then affect the cutting.Also note that some vinyl colors have a tendency to pull away from the backing sheet more easily thanothers. If you notice the vinyl pulling up in corners and tight spots, try slowing the cutting speed.Applying Vinyl For easier removal of the waste from the backing, add a rectangle around the perimeter of the shape(s) youare cutting. Select everything and apply a Join. This will then ensure that the interior shapes are cut first,with the outside rectangle cut last. When weeding, you may need to cut away and remove smaller waste parts versus trying to lift the entirewaste section at one time. You do not want the waste vinyl inadvertently coming into contact with theshapes you want to keep. Use a craft knife or paper piercer to gently lift away pieces of waste vinyl todiscard. If you are applying small lettering or doing an etching application, do NOT weed the waste vinyl. The entirepiece should be applied to the project surface, smoothed down firmly and evenly, and then weeded. Theadhesion between the vinyl and the hard surface will make weeding much easier, with less likelihood ofsmall shapes coming loose. To transfer vinyl to a wall (or window or other surface), apply transfer tape across the vinyl, repeating rowsof tape to completely cover the shapes. At the top, have one layer of tape with just the bottom half coveringthe vinyl so that the top half can be pressed to the wall and used as a hinge. Once you have the vinylaligned as desired, flip up, leaving that top piece of tape adhered/hinged to the wall. Remove the backingsheet from the vinyl. Then carefully bring the vinyl back down and begin pressing to the wall, smoothly andevenly. Use an old credit card or plastic scraper to smooth out wrinkles and get better adhesion. Gently peelaway the transfer tape from the top and press again with the credit card or scraper.10.04 Fabric and Felt It is highly recommend that the KNK Fabric Blade be used when cutting fabric and felt. It is designed to givesharper cutting in tight corners and points. When cutting with the fabric blade, it is not necessary to apply a stabilizer to all fabrics. While some thickerfabrics will cut much better with an iron-on stabilizer such as Steam-a-Seam 2 or Thermo-Web’s Heat n’Bond, others will still yield good results when cut without it. Some users also prefer to iron their fabrics tofreezer paper before cutting. With or without a stabilizer, it is highly recommended that a clean and sticky mat be used. If no stabilizer hasbeen applied, then brayer the fabric firmly and evenly to the mat. With most fabrics it will be necessary touse stickier mats than normal and tape the outside edges of the fabric. Because the backing sheets on Steam-a-Seam 2 and Heat n’ Bond are slippery, spraying them with OdifUSA 505 Temporary adhesive can then make them stick firmly to the mat and not slip during cutting. Someresidue from the 505 may get onto the mat, thus the reason to use a dedicated mat for fabric. This residuewill add to the bonding for future cuts. (Thanks to Lynn Keniston for this idea!) Some users also prefer to remove the backing sheets on stabilized fabrics before brayering to the cuttingmats. This works as well. The best unstiffened (soft) felt to use is 100% wool. It cuts cleaner than other types. A wool blend shouldalso work well. The Nonwovens WoolFelt is 35% wool, 65% Dacron and tends to cut very cleanly. If the feltyou have is not cutting well, consider applying one of the stabilizers mentioned above. If the felt is pre-stiffened, then it should cut fine using the blue capped thick materials blade versus the fabricblade. Because of the thickness, you may need to tape the felt to the mat to prevent slippage during cutting. In general you will need to use 2 or 3 passes when cutting most fabrics and felts. It is necessary so that allfibers will be cleanly cut. |
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