Craftsman 113.201392 Owner's Manual

Figure 12 i ilFigure 14) +OVER-LAPPED BACK-UP STRIPFigure 13 Figure 15HOLD A LOHSARCUP SIROKEFigure 16 Figure 17HORIZONTAL WELD|NGHorizontal welding refers to one type of butt weld betweentwo plates in a vertical plane. For practice, set up a plateas for vertical welding and run straight beads across fromleft to right (fig. 12). Use tFe same current settings as forvertical-down welding and hold the rod as indicated witha short arc. Move the rod in a straight llne and deposita light bead. The rate of travel will depend upon the currentused. Too slow a travel will cause the bead to sag (fig. 13).Practice with 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods until a wellformed bead can be made with each size rod (fig. 14).Sheet metaJ up to 1/16-inch thick can be butt welded fromone side. If the seam has numerous gaps, use a back-upstrip, allowing a slight gap between edges of 1/8-inchthick metal and weld from both sides (fig. 15). All metal3/16-1nch thick and over should be beveled and weldedwith a number of passes (fig. t6). Thoroughly clean eachbead before laying the next and use higher current thanfor single-pass welding.The appearance of a multiple-pass horizontal weld can beimproved by vertical down beads lald closely together.Use a swift circular motion to the right; slowly downwardwhile welding (fig. 17).OVERHEAD WELDINGAlthough overhead welding is generally considered diffi-eu]t, do not become discouraged, as it is being done everyday by people who have taught themselves. Once the artof maintaining a short arc has been mastered, the restwill be easy.Since there will be a shower of sparks, wear a leatherjacket and keep the practice plate slightly higher than thetop of your head when standing. To keep sparks out of yourgJove, grasp the electrode ho]der as indicated in figure 18and ho]d the rod in a nearly vertical position with a slighttilt to the right+ Drape the cable over your shoulder so itsweight will not interfere with the use of the electrode. Use1/8-inch rods and a current setting the same as for verticalwelding, and move the rod in a straight line without anyweaving or whipping motions. A reasonably fast rate oftravel must be used to prevent the bead from sagging andundercutting along the edges. Vary the rate of travel andnotice its effect on the size and appearance of the weld.When you feel you can run a satisfactory bead, try theslde-to-side weaving motion and deposit a thin weld ap-proximately 3/4-inch wide. Themovement must be somewhatfaster than for other positions to keep the bead fromsagging. (This method of weaving is used on]y for thelast pass on heavy welds where improved appearance isnecessary.)The whipping motion is used where a gap exists betweenthe plates as it provides better penetration with higherwelding current. For practice work, set up two plates ap-proximately 1/8-inch thick, allowing a gap between them.Burn in deep for good penetration with 1/8 and 5/32-1nchrods, varying the plate size and gap distances.F;gure 18Figure 19Fillet welds for lap or tee-joints are most common in theoverhead position. Tack+weld two pieces of scrap irontogether to form a tee+iolnt, and clamp in the overheadposition so one plate is held vertically (fig. 19). HoLd therod at angles indicated and deposit a light bead from leftto right without weaving or whipping movements. A slightlyhigher current than used for overhead butt we_ds will benecessary to get good penetration at the root of the weld._-_3