Craftsman 113.201392 Owner's Manual

VERTICAI..UPWELDING 90°Figure 6Figure 7Figure 8r_F;gure TOUse 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods for all verticabup welds andsta_" by running practice beads from bottom to top of a3/16 or 1i4-1nch plate, tack-welded in a vertical positionHold the rod as shown in figure 6, noting that the angleof the rod is not as steep as for vertlcal-down welding, buttdted just slightly (approximately five degrees) so the tipof the electrode points upward. Strike and hold a short arcuntil a small amount of metal _s deposited, then quicklyraise the rod upward w_th a wrist movement to increase thelength of the arc at the top of the stroke (fig. 7). As soonos the metal deposited in the crater hes solidified, bring therod down and deposit more metal. Keep repeating thiswhipping motion, while gradually moving the rod upwardand toward the plate as the electrode burns off. The lengthof the stroke will depend upon the amount of metal de_posited and the welding current used. Keep the rod inconstant motion once it has left the crater. The purposeof a long arc is to prevent any metal from being depositedexcept when the rod is held at the crater. If globules ofmolten metal drop from the tip of the rod when the arc islengthened, either the current is too high or the rod hasremained away from the crater too lang. Care should betaken not to break the arc Qt the top of the stroke. Do notdeposit too much metal at one time as this will cause theweld to sag and result in a high narrow bead undercutalong the sides• Better penetration can be had by thevertical-up method• This can be demonstrated by joiningtwo pieces of 3/16-inch metal with a butt weld, using thewhrpping motion. Leave a gap between the plates and usea 5/32-inch rod with a fairly high current, determined byexperimenting. The whipping motion wifl melt the corners ofthe plate and form a pocket in wh]ch to deposit the weldmetal (fig. 8).Burn the rod in deep so the crater extends through to theback side. After completing the weld, inspect the backside for the smalt bead, whLch indicates 100-percent pene-tration Buff welds on heawer materials should be weldedon both sides.On materials up to 1/4-1nch thick, use the whipping motionon small single-pass fillet welds for lap and tee-joints. Largersingle-pass fillet welds can be made by the whipping motionwith a slight slde-to-slde weave added and combined withthe up and down movement to make a triangular shapedweave (fig. 9). This will produce a "shelf" upon whichadditional metal is deposited intermLttentlyas the weldingprogresses• There should be a slight pause in the weavingmot_an at the toes of the weld to avoid making a bead thatis too convex. Materials 1/4-inch and thicker must be bev-eled on one or both sides, depending upon the joint.Practice making a wide bead using a side-to.side weavingmotion with a very shght whipping action at each end togive the metal at each end a chance to solidify and avoidundercutting along the sidesof the weld (fig. 10). This typeof bead is used on welds that require more than one passand is colTed the finish bead or "wash" pass. Hold a shortarc, making the bead approximately 3/4-inch wide andfairly hght, Multiple verticoLwelds may be made as shownin the series of diagrams, figure 11.÷TOP _ I$!Frgure I 1r pASS